About Us

As classic car enthusiasts, we offer enclosed storage with a safe and secure environment with which to store your prized vehicles. Storing a Classic Car can be tricky, adding unnecessary miles to keep the vehicle 'in tune' could decrease it's value and risk further damage, yet not using it can also do harm to things like the brake system, fuel system, suspension bushings and various other components.In addition to our standard storage options, we have a network of local craftsmen who can undertake all mechanical, electrical, body and interior repairs and refurbishment for the older vehicles. Short-term leases available In addition to the automotive storage we have areas set aside exclusively for motorcycles.
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Gallery

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Contact Info

Contact Us

Tom Beld

(615) 812-8522

Location - Franklin TN

tom_theoldcargarage.coma

Page 6 Tips for Taking a Car Out of Storage• Drain and properly dispose of any gas in the tank, in the carburetor float bowls and also flush the fuel lines. If for some reason the car doesn't start, the more potential causes you have eliminated ahead of time, the faster you'll be able to find the problem and get on the road!• Drain, flush and replace the coolant. I know you only put it in three months ago, but many of the newer 'coolants' have corrosion inhibitors to help protect your cooling system. These corrosion inhibitors have been eating away at the rust inside your cooling system for the past 90 days, so flushing things through could prevent a blockage and subsequent overheating the next time the mercury soars. Replace with fresh coolant. A 50/50 anti-freeze/water mix is fine.• Change the engine oil. Oil that has been sitting in an engine for three months is likely to be contaminated with water and possibly acids that can cause premature bearing failure and rust inside the engine. While you are at it, now is a good time to change the oil filter too.•Charge the battery, and keep it warm until you are ready to use it.• If the car has been left for a very long period of time unattended (more than 90 days), remove the sparkplugs and squirt some form of 'upper-cylinder lubricant' into the cylinders. This will help free any piston rings that may have become stuck.• Bleed the brakes and check the operation at the wheel cylinders. Make sure the Brake and Clutch master cylinders are full of brake fluid. Brake fluid can absorb water very quickly so make absolutely sure your brakes are working before tearing off down the street! If the car has sat a long time, it is recommended that you purge the system of old and possibly contaminated brake fluid. Don't forget to check the operation of the 'hand' or 'emergency' brake too!• Install the warmed and fully charged battery in the car. With the spark plugs removed, turn the engine over with the key several times. The aim here is to let that oil you put into the cylinders lubricate the cylinder walls, so you don't scratch things up, and also to 'prime' the oil and fuel pumps ready for ignition. You want to continue cranking the engine until the oil pressure gauge needle moves up, or your oil pressure 'idiot' light goes out.• Replace the spark plugs, ensuring to reattach the leads correctly. Now remove the air filter cover and liberally spray some 'engine starter fluid' like "Ez-Start" or similar, into the mouth of the carburetors. This will greatly increase the likely hood that your car will start first time and you want your engine to have the best possible chance for 'first time' ignition as you can give it. Leave the air filter cover off for now.• Get behind the wheel, make sure the gears are not engaged, depress the clutch, give it a little bit of gas or choke and turn the ignition key! • Don't rev the engine; rather let it 'idle' until it reaches operating temperature. Replace the air filter cover. Check there are no fluids leaking beneath the car, check the brakes work, then staying close to home, take the car on a short 30 minute run. This will loosen everything up evaporate all the moisture in the exhaust and in the engine.
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Tips for Long-Term Classic Car Storage• Make sure your gas tank is full. This will reduce the amount of water that can be absorbed by the gasoline and it also slows the rate at which it turns to varnish. Use and additive like "Sta-Bil", "Dry Gas" or similar. Make sure it's well mixed and run the car for a while to make sure it's in the entire fuel system.• Freezing temperatures naturally dictate that anti-freeze be used. But even if it's not freezing, put it in. Many of the newer 'coolants' have excellent corrosion inhibitors that will help protect and lubricate your cooling system. A 50/50 anti-freeze/water mix is fine. Again make sure to run the car so it's mixed throughout the entire system.• Change the engine oil. Dirty oil is contaminated with acids and water that can cause premature bearing failure and rust inside the engine. If the car is likely to be left for a very long period of time unattended, remove the sparkplugs and liberally squirt some form of 'upper-cylinder lubricant' into the cylinders before replacing the plugs. This will help stop the piston rings from rusting to the cylinder walls.• Make sure the Brake and Clutch master cylinders are full of brake fluid. Brake fluid can absorb water very quickly. By reducing the exposed surface area of the fluid, the water absorption can be reduced. If you can, bleed the brake and clutch systems. It is recommended that you do this on an annual basis anyway, to purge the system of old and possibly contaminated brake fluid.• To inhibit rust in the engine area, use a lubricant spray such as WD40 to coat all exposed metal surfaces. The volatile carrier in the WD40 will soon evaporate leaving a protective film on the hose clamps, coils, carb bodies etc. 'Wax-oyl' is also good, but you'll want to hose it off at a 'car wash' in the Spring.• Wash the entire car and apply a good wax. Don't forget to clean the inside. Do this early in the day to give it plenty of time to thoroughly dry before putting it in storage.• If you have a convertible top, leave it up and the windows and vents closed. A convertible top can develop nasty creases when folded for long periods, especially in cold climates. Treat Vinyl tops with Silicone or similar. Keeping the windows and vents closed keeps small creatures from entering. But buy some desiccant sacs from a storage supply house 'Dry Pac' for example and place them inside the car on the floors. This will keep moisture from damaging the interior if it is damp or humid where you are.• Ensure that the boot is clean and dry, the boot seal is not always positive and some moisture can collect and condense in the inner fenders and floor. Air it out well for a day or so, then place a desiccant sac in here too before closing it up.• Finally, take the car on a good 30 minute run. This will evaporate all the moisture in the exhaust and in the engine. Then park the car with the hand brake off and either 'chock' the wheels or leave it in gear if necessary. Over inflating the tires can help guard against flat spots. Disconnect the battery. • The best thing to do for a stored car is to visit it once a month and take it for a short drive. This keeps everything in good shape, preventing things from getting corroded and seals drying out. At the very least have some one start it up periodically. If you are going to cover it use a proper Cloth car cover, not a Plastic one. If you find the concrete floor in your storage unit gets damp or 'sweats' use cat litter, or lay plastic beneath the car to prevent the condensation from reaching your floor pans.
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